| Update #: 1307, Date: 2012-02-19 05:02:39 | | Title: seats....again | | Keywords: interior | |
'm having trouble finding the perfect seat for the replica. I need something narrow (I made the transmission tunnel fairly wide), tall (to see over the cowl/hood), and adjustable.
I've tried seats from a datsun 810, isuzu rodeo, minivan, and now, a geo tracker.
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| Update #: 1308, Date: 2012-03-03 07:03:59 | | Title: seat finally mounted | | Keywords: interior |
Ok...the driver's seat is now attached to the chassis for real...four bolts from the seat to the adapter and four more to fasten the adapter to the chassis

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| Update #: 1309, Date: 2012-03-04 02:03:14 | | Title: fitting the floor | | Keywords: body | test fitting the driver's side floor. The sheet metal came from the hood of my datsun 810 donor.
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| Update #: 1311, Date: 2012-03-04 08:03:16 | | Title: more floor pan stuff | | Keywords: body | I clamped the floor pan down, lay down on a creeper, and crawled under the chassis with some sharpie markers so I could trace the outline of the chassis tubes onto the bottom of the sheet metal. This will let me take the floor over to the work bench and drill holes for rivets knowing that these holes of correctly positioned
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| Update #: 1312, Date: 2012-03-14 07:03:43 | | Title: sear and gear selector | | Keywords: interior | The seat fits, although finding that out was strangely annoying

I also worked on mounting the gear selector to the transmission tunnel

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| Update #: 1313, Date: 2012-04-15 05:04:32 | | Title: skinning the transmission tunnel | | Keywords: interior | | The skin is attached to the portion of the transmission tunnel over the drive shaft
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| Update #: 1314, Date: 2012-04-21 12:04:24 | | Title: prepping for sheet metal | | Keywords: body | | I used an angle grinder to remove the rust and mill scale from the back end of the chassis. After that I covered the tubes in rustoleum rust converter. they should be ready for sheet metal now. |
| Update #: 1315, Date: 2012-05-06 06:05:10 | | Title: I hate modern cars | | Keywords: | | ...and the self doubt they cause. My sister needed to have the side mirror on her car replaced. Dad ordered the part from rock auto. She came up for the weekend to give us access to the car. I even checked with the guys from advanced autoparts bofore to see what to expect.
I have removed interior door panels before, but never on a relative's daily driver. I hate working on other people's cars, anyway, but especially so when they depend upon the car for their livelihood. If I mess up my own toy car, I inconvenience myself. If I mess up somebody's primary car I could owe them a lot of money.
The side mirror is only held on by three bolts, and there is only one plug on the harness to supply power to the mirror motors and heater. The plug can only be inserted one way. How hard can it be?
If that sound a clip releasing from the door, or the panel cracking? what do you mean I must remove the door lock swiches to get to the last bolt? Seriously? Unhooking the pigtail requires pulling the speakers from the door? early into the process I lost my nerve and asked for help. I ended up observing most of it without much participation. I feel like I should turn in my man card. |
| Update #: 1316, Date: 2012-05-12 08:05:26 | | Title: panels for the back of the body | | Keywords: body | | I've installed the gas tank

trimmed and drilled the panels for the bottom of the seat area (they are from the sides of an oven)


and riveted the rear quarter panels and the back into place

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| Update #: 1317, Date: 2012-05-19 05:05:35 | | Title: More fuel pump fun | | Keywords: body | | The fuel pump works.The mount for the external fuel pump fuel pump had three legs of different length so it fit the contours on the underside of the wagon. That mount now has three equal-length legs so it can be mounted to a flat plate.
 
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